The end.....heralding a new beginning

This may be my last post from Transylvania. After nine years, I shall be leaving, hopefully crossing the border next Friday. It has been an often interesting and sometimes rewarding time, however I am glad to be moving on.

The equestrian business is a hard way to make money. My health has suffered during the past few years, including chronic lower back pain. I haven't slept a full night in the past couple of years, in a country where there isn't a single registered chiropractor. The best that the Romanian health service can do is prescribe opium and ketamin-based medications, which are potentially addictive and compromise one's balance and alertness. Meanwhile, I have been working 8am to 10pm virtually every day, with all the stress of running a business, whilst making about as much money as someone on welfare in Britain.

It is also desperately difficult to sell holidays in a country that shoots itself in the foot again and again. A deeply corrupt government craves industrialisation, announcing that "the only tourist zones" are the polluted mafia-owned Danube Delta, the low-class ski resort of Poiana Brasov (also mafia-owned)  and the chaotically developed Bucovina region (whose only real attraction is several Painted Monasteries).

I cannot sell a destination that looks like Europe's garbage dump. Almost every river in Romania looks like this, and so do many roadsides and railway linesides. It wasn't like this when I came here.

I cannot sell a country where the "tourist facilities" so often are a complete mess, like the "picnic site and mineral water spring" shown here. The bushes on the right are the "public lavatory" too.

I cannot sell trips in the mountains when the forests are becoming ravaged by an excessive volume of logging and where logging tractors churn the trails into knee-deep muddy swamps. This log pile has just appeared, so a hill somewhere has been clear felled.

I cannot sell a nation whose government, aided and abetted by most of the urban population, is set on destroying sustainable rural life. All the activities shown in the picture are now illegal, despite the rather obvious lack of traffic (and the frequent clusters of pot-holes that keep the limited traffic going slow). Hardly anyone stands up for family farmers, not even the so-called ecotourism industry.

Then there are the ugly new houses that litter the landscape. Where else in Europe will monolithic pink and bright blue villas appear scattered across a National Park (facilitated by some well directed bribes) or climbing a once beautiful hillside? Pictured are some of the smaller new houses in my relatively less affluent village. In what lurid shade will they be painted? These people are building more square feet per occupant even that well off families would expect in the West. And it is heated by wood, meaning even more forest cut.

It is difficult and costly to run a business when the basic infrastructure is run-down and broken, despite the vast sums that the EU is pouring into Romania (largely, it seems, to benefit the capital city Bucuresti - now rated as "Europe's most polluted city" - and provide new villas and cars for the ruling elite). The picture shows the "main road" to my village and its neighbour, the only road linking some eight thousand people to the outside world. The concrete mining structure has stood derelict for nearly two decades, and will probably remain there until it falls into the road.

I could mention too the supposedly good restaurants where "hot" meals arrive cold more often than not, and where a simple order can take an hour to arrive. I could ask why an average hotel offering indifferent service in an ugly communist-era district of Bucuresti costs appreciably more than a pleasant friendly hotel in a leafy street in Budapest, Hungary? I could complain about the slow, dirty, ill maintained trains with third-world lavatories. Then there are the omnipresent beggars, who are becoming more assertive as poverty bites. I might note that, within 24 hours of announcing my departure, a group of gypsies drove into my yard with a truck and tried to steal several agricultural implements for scrap metal. I feel as if I live in a country where hardly anyone seems to care about anything other than their immediate gratification.

Meanwhile, heritage is going to wrack and ruin. Did I mention that the state railway is trying to auction off its preserved steam locomotives to raise money because it can't afford to pay the electricity bill for its electrified main lines? Meanwhile, this old narrow gauge steam train has stood derelict on the edge of Cluj-Napoca for many years.

There are still some wonderfully beautiful areas within Transylvania, such as the Szekelyfold where part of Romania's extensive Hungarian minority lives. They have more pride, work harder, and have a relatively Western outlook. The Hungarian minority generally are proud of their traditions. It is there, to Count Kalnoky's Estate, where many of my horses are going. Count Kalnoky will be taking over my trail riding business and website, with the first trail ride starting on 11 May 2008. He has an excellent, well respected tourist business (patronised by HRH Prince Charles, amongst others), and I am sure that he will offer some excellent trail rides in his enclave.

My Hutul horses are going to a Hungarian breeder near Lake Balaton. Isn't it curious how it is left to Hungarian enthusiasts to keep alive a Romanian breed whilst over here the stud books aren't even maintained up to date? The old mare Kaluga has gained a little extra strength and is retired to a farm near Targu Mures, where a horse-loving travel agent is allowing her to live her last months in peace. Luciana and colt Luke are going with Tudor and Gelu to the Ratiu Family Foundation's site near Turda, south of Cluj-Napoca, where Cornel will also be employed. Doru and Pintea will travel to Britain with Pintea and I.

The three dogs will remain six months before they are allowed to enter Britain in October, along with the cats Tiger, Zgomotilla and Lucky. The remaining cats will find new homes with some of the horses at the Ratiu Family Foundation.

Yes, I expect that I shall raise a howl of protest from some Romanians. Perhaps I shall hear from the professor who harangued me a while ago, informing me that "there was no Jewish Holocaust"? Perhaps I shall hear from the lady who demanded an assurance that, when I return to Britain, I will tell everyone to go on holiday in Romania? Or maybe the Ministry of Tourism, which had my phone tapped a few years ago to find whether I was opposed to their awful Dracula Theme Park project, will attack me? After all, it is easier and less challenging to shoot the messenger than to deal with the problem.

Nevertheless, I have seen a potentially good country turn sour over the past few years, and I don't want to be corrupted with it. I cannot change a country for the better, nor seemingly even my neighbours. I am deeply sad about this. I have fought the long defeat, and now is time to escape whilst I can.

I have enjoyed the doings with horses and carts and peasant farming in this shrinking enclave. I am fortunate to have experienced a dying way of life whilst, superficially at least, it appeared vibrant. I have enjoyed the remote mountains in silence, and the wide open skies. Now, at least, I shall be spared the sight of this community in its death throes. My horses have good homes, the cats and dogs too. Doru and Pintea, good Transylvanian horses that they are, will accompany me on the next stage in the journey of my life with Danielle.

Anyway, soon we shall be living at the foot of the chalk downlands that sweep across Berkshire, Oxfordshire and Wiltshire, including the Vale of the White Horse. It is a scenic area with, by English standards, a lot of open space and many places to ride including the Ridgeway. There are lots of historical references, from the prehistoric through Alfred the Great. I used to live around there so, in a way, I am going back home. After these nine years here, I am going back considerably more capable than when I left. These long years have not been wasted.

I hope that I shall find a job as an engineer on the railway, even on the restarted Crossrail project that I helped design in the 1990's before it was shelved for a decade. I miss the railway, where at least four generation of my family worked.

I shall, of course, continue posting from Britain. There will be a gap of a few weeks until Danielle and I get established. However, there will be plenty to write about, with news about the horses, riding, and equestrian matters generally. It has been a pleasure writing for you, and receiving your comments. Please do keep on visiting my blog.

Comments

[sue]

Julian and Danielle, I am so sorry. You worked hard to try to fulfill your dreams. Nothing can take away what you did achieve, nor the pleasure you gave to many people.
After time to catch breath back here, I'm sure you will find another dream to reach for. The situation there seems bad at the moment, but I hope you will bring back the good memories - some of them of places and times you might be the last Westeners to see.
Very well done rehoming all the animals.
Keep yourselves safe and have a good journey to UK.

[Steve]

I am realy sorry to here that , it is such a shame and a great loss for both the country where you hoped to create something to attract tourism helping to build a healthy economy, I am sorry I have not commented much on your posts over the last 12 months but have loved reading them .

The very best of luck back in England hope you can sort something out OK it must have been one of the hardest decisions you have made but when all said and done your health and sanity are the most important things in life

steve

[Nick]

Sorry to hear that it is ending. I've enjoyed reading your posts. I'm looking forward to reading your posts from Britain.

[Paul White]

This is not good at all! We all feel the same way, but please do not give in. We are jut beginning to build a network of ex pats and we should all be looking out for each other.

Have you considered moving to Jud. Covasna. Land is cheap and there is definitely a different way here. You touched on this in your posting.

We have already discussed a joint venture and myself and my colleague would very much like to start arrangements as soon as possible. We would like to visit you in April. Just hang in there for a bit longer.
Paul

[Laura]

I just found your blog a while ago and was enjoying reading through your archives.

It must have been a tough decision to leave and return to Britain. What a shame that your adopted country can't seem to pick itself up. Your post was very well written and very informative - albeit a bit sad...

Hope you and your animals make the trip back to Britain ok. Looking forward to reading more equestrian posts when you are re-settled.

[Ariella]

Julian, my two brief visits to your place in Lunca Ilvei were some of the best travel experiences I've ever had. You can be really proud of what you managed to accomplish over the last nine years against the odds. I wish you all the best in your future endeavours.

[emil]

Why all good things have to come to an end? Thank you very much for all your posts, Julian. I was hoping to be able to visit you sometime this year. Now I am sure you are excited of a new start back in England.

I think all travel businesses are hit hard during these times. Consumers here in US are less likely to spend on travel overseas with the huge depreciation of the currency and our spending power ever shrinking over the last years. People elsewhere go through similar economic hardships, more or less. The only comforting thought is that these times will pass eventually, as they always do. But sooner or later you were due to feel the effects. In two or three years the trust will be back again, though this may be wishful thinking.

I totally understand your frustration with the resistance to change in Romania. Currently people do not see the trash around them as they face bigger every day problems at home. Romanian politicians are traditionally inept, with the notable exception of fulfilling their own interests fast enough, before the next band of thieves arrives. I always hoped people like you would help the others finally open their eyes. It will happen one day, no doubt. But now that day is a bit further away, unfortunately.

I felt this coming since you told us about your recurring dream of England’s forests. Just hoped it be later. Look forward to hear from you and Danielle after you settle down. Take care, you two!

[Callie]

Julian and Danielle, Godspeed and safe travels back to the UK. I hope you continue to document your journey as you restart anew back in the UK. Good Luck!

[Callie]

Julian and Danielle, Godspeed and safe travels back to the UK. I hope you continue to document your journey as you restart anew back in the UK. Good Luck!

[Callie]

Julian and Danielle, Godspeed and safe travels back to the UK. I hope you continue to document your journey as you restart anew back in the UK. Good Luck!

[risingrainbow]

Your post brings tears to my eyes. Something that doesn't happen often. I am sorry that this didn't work out, it is such a loss to the world.

I hope that life is better for you back home and look forward to looking to the next chapters in your life.

[Victoria Cummings]

Julian and Danielle - I've found that sometimes the hardest, most painful changes are really gifts in disguise. All the best of luck with your new life - Please remember that you have a whole virtual neighborhood of people here in the blogosphere who care about you and will eagerly await your stories from England. Take care of each other as you move on. Big hugs!

[red]

Julian I am truly sad for your dissapiontment and Romania will be worse off for your leaving. Visiting you was the highlight of our trip to Europe. Amber-Rose will be devastated when she hears, as she was set on returning for a year in 2011 ever since we left and her resolve has not waivered. I'm glad Kaluga is going to have a happy retirement.I shall watch for your posts each evening as always. Julian Best of luck in all your future endeavours Red, Pat, and Amber-Rose

[amber-rose mcqueen]

hi julian
thats so sad that you are closing down. i was really looking foward to coming back say hi to every one for me if you remeber, hope you enjoy your new life. but im really sad.good luck

[amber-rose mcqueen]

hi lulian
ita amber again i was just wondering what is happening with nelly and olga

[Lynda]

I have so much enjoyed reading about your life in Transylvania. Your descriptions and storytelling did not make it seem like the situation which you are describing in this good-bye post. You made it seem very desirable, quaint, and worthwhile. So sorry to hear otherwise. Very glad to hear that you found good homes for everyone (including yourself). I look forward to hearing about your next life.

[AmyB.]

Oh, I'm sorry things weren't working out for you! I have loved reading your blog and looking at the pictures. I felt like I was in another world and traveling back in time. What a journey life is. Take care and best of luck with your move. Will keep checking for updates.

many blessings!

[Joanne]

Julian and Danielle,

I'm so sorry that you are leaving Transylvania! Your pictures and descriptions have made it my number one travel fantasy for the past couple of years and I was really hoping to visit you in 2009. Now I wish that I had figured out some way to do it before you left despite problems with money, the exchange rate, and travel companions who had other ideas.

In addition to the fascination of a (at least in some places) beautiful land that allows a view of a lifestyle that has died out in most other parts of Europe, I have always been very impressed with your obvious enjoyment of and concern for all of your animals. I am so glad that you have found good homes for all that you can't take with you and especially that Kaluga will have a well-deserved and hopefully pleasant retirement. It takes a special person to provide for animals when their working days are past and they need extra care.

I hope that your travel plans work out smoothly and that your new endeavors in England are rewarding. Many thanks for the view that you have given us of some of the best parts of a troubled country. No doubt your observations in England will be equally fascinating.

Joanne

[klara]

hello julian,
I'm so sorry for you but I'm sure there is something else then what you shared with us that convinced you to give up and return to britain... maybe a bankruptcy ?!! I doubt the country is so bad and the people you worked with / for are so mean...all of a sudden... I visited twice the country and it's a wonderful place, people so kind...my experince was enjoyable and that's why I have my doubts...
However I'm sorry for you and I wish you all the best. Take care, Klara - Montreal

[sue]

To Klara: having been an expat myself, I have to tell you that 2 visits to a country in no way provides you with the experience to know what it is like to live and work within a regime with it's people. Daily reality is very different from rose-tinted tourist glasses.

[Transylvanianhorseman]

Sue: thank you for commenting. The truth is, one can have a lot of fun here on a visit, have plenty of drinks with neighbours, parties, music, etc, and go away with a great superficial impression. However, there is almost no money in circulation (except that brought by the visitor), and people have become atuned to get what they can as soon as someone new becomes familiar. As with adolescents, immediate gratification is craved above anything lasting. And people who are great fun to have a drink with still throw all their rubbish into the river, wondering why one can possibly be shocked at something so normal. It is a very mixed up country, populated by people who can be decent and civilised but are terribly misled by corrupt politicians, mafia, and manipulative foreign corporations peddling all sorts of shoddy goods, chemical-ridden food, expensive bankloans, etc. There is a lot that I like here, however it is almost impossible for an honest person to make a good living in Romania.

[Grey Horse Matters]

So sorry to hear you are leaving Romania, I have enjoyed your stories. It is a shame what is happening to that country. I wish you and Danielle good luck on your move back to Britain. I don't know if it's any consolation but things always happen for a reason, maybe this will be for the best. It will certainly be better for your health and welfare. Again good luck to you and Danielle and we will all be looking for an update when you get settled.

[Colorado reader]

Thank you for your blog...I look forward to seeing the memoir "Transylvanian Horseman" someday in my local bookstore. Please do write it!! With all the wonderful photos too.

[Anne]

Julian, you have given us hints and so has Danielle. You will be a loss to Romania, and I'm very sorry that I will never ride in Transylvania with you.
I admire what you've done and what you've tried to do. I admire you for how you've been a steward of your animals and your business. And for realizing that when it was time to go, it was time to go.

Please keep blogging -- and write that book! You have such wonderful insights and I'm sure you'll look at the place you grew up with new, truth-telling eyes. I want to read about it.

Bless you, Danielle, your animals and your move. And good luck!

[Shirley]

As many have already said, I'll miss your Romanian stories, but every thing happens for a reason. You seem to have done a great job of organizing your departure, and God bless you for always looking after the welfare of your animals. Perhaps you will someday want to come to Canada and ride in our beautiful Rocky mountains, if so let me know. We can take you to places that will take your breath away, and maybe it's time for you to relax and become the tourist!(After you get settled in back in England!)